Editing Introduction to a Self Managed Life: a 13 hour & 28 minute presentation by FUTO software (section)

== Receivers, amps, electronics ==

Today, audio electronics that are competently designed(key word; ''competently'') will be indistinguishable in an ABX test from gear that costs $10,000. Paying $10,000 for an amplifier or $8000 for a DAC isn’t an exercise in audible improvements; they’re just status symbols.

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=== The Basic Building Blocks ===

You need three main things to get from digital music to sound: 1. Something to turn digital into analog (DAC) 2. Something to control volume and inputs (preamp) 3. Something to make it loud enough for speakers (power amp)

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==== Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) ====

* Takes the digital signal from your computer, the 1s and 0s, and turns it into an electrical audio signal.
* This could be in your computer motherboard, a soundcard, in a box by itself, in your receiver, or your television.
* Most modern ones are fine - don’t fall for a $10000 DAC or similar bs
* Having this OUTSIDE of your computer usually means less chances for computer-y noise in your audio like hiss/high frequency noises when doing something with your computer.

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==== Preamp ====

* This controls which input you’re listening to, so you can switch between a bluray player, cable box, playstation, etc.
* This is what has a volume knob, so it’s pretty much a fancy switch &amp; volume control, sometimes has bass/treble controls on it.
* This isn’t what makes things ''louder'' - that’s for the power amplifier.
* This can be better than taking the output from a digital to analog converter and simply lowering the audio volume in VLC.

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==== Preamp? Why the hell would I pay for a fancy volume knob when my mouse wheel and VLC let me do that for free? ====

When you lower the audio signal volume in VLC, you’re not attenuating an analog signal. Attenuating an analog signal takes the same audio you had and just shrinks the waveform.

When you lower the volume using VLC and then amplifying that, you’re lowering the volume digitally. 16 bit audio has 96 dB of dynamic range, 24 bit audio has 144. If you lower the volume digitally too much, it will start to sound like you are actually losing bits of audio. Even digital preamps usually use a ''digital signal'' to control '''analog amplification &amp; attenuation.'''

A great example of this would be to hook a digital to analog converter with no volume control/attenuation knob up to your computer, and plug it '''straight''' into a power amp. This would be full volume all the time. Then, lower the volume in VLC. This will sound different than lowering the volume on an analog preamp, because you’re not lowering the signal, you’re throwing away digital data.

'''If you think paying extra for a preamp is stupid, just buy a stereo receiver. You get a good enough preamp along with a good enough DAC &amp; amp and it costs around the same or less than just a preamp from “audiophile” brands.'''

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==== Power Amp ====

* Turns a tiny audio signal into a big audio signal.
* As long as it’s competently designed and can power a 4 ohm load without turning off, you’re fine.

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=== Now the Combinations: ===

Similar to how a modern wireless router is actually a router, a switch, and a wireless access point all in one, the devices below are usually combinations of the devices above:

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==== Integrated Amp ====

* Preamp + Power amp in one box
* Usually does not come with a digital to analog converter, so still needs a DAC if you have a source with a digital output.
* Usually cheaper than separate components when comparing with others from the same company.

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==== Receiver ====

* DAC + Preamp + Power amp all in one
* Often has digital inputs like optical/HDMI
* Has radio tuner, (that is why it’s called a receiver)
* Usually the cheapest all-in-one option
* Good for most people who just want things to work &amp; sound good without being overly complicated.

Most modern electronics that are competently designed all sound basically the same. Don’t fall for that “magical preamp” or “warm sounding DAC” garbage. Get something with enough power for your speakers, digital inputs you need, and spend the rest of your money on speakers and room treatment.

The only time you need separate components is: * Need more power than receivers offer * Want to upgrade one piece at a time * Have some specific feature need * Found a crazy deal on used gear

For most of the people reading this, a used ten year old receiver with optical input will do everything you need, and cost under $200. '''Save your money for the stuff that actually matters; good speakers &amp; acoustic treatment.''' (and your retirement).

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=== Suggested electronics: 5-10 year old receiver with optical/coax in. ===

There are two ways in the affordable, consumer realm to transfer digital audio signals.

* SPDIF using an optical cable(toslink).
* SPDIF using a coaxial cable.
** This is like an analog RCA audio cable, same connector, but requires a cable that is manufactured to much stricter specifications.

Getting a receiver that supports ''both'' gives you flexibility in case your motherboard only supports one or the other.

Laptops rarely have coaxial or optical out. While you can get an audio interface, this is extra money, and often not immediately available. A USB to spdif device requires an online order, while a 1/8” to RCA cable is available everywhere.

This device above allows you to have the flexibility to use whatever works best for you at the time. [https://www.ebay.com/itm/156102995033?_trksid=p4375194.c101800.m5481 Best of all, it’s $187]. Used devices like these in good condition from harman kardon(before they cheaped out, go back to 2012-ish era), denon, onkyo, etc. are being sold sub-$200 on eBay &amp; audiogon every day.

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