Editing Introduction to a Self Managed Life: a 13 hour & 28 minute presentation by FUTO software (section)

= Putting together affordable home hi-fi =

Now, let’s break down the audio components because, you don’t need to spend a fortune for good sound. You just have to avoid snake oil and sound bars.

<span id="speakers"></span>
== Speakers ==

* '''Speakers''': I use <code>Vandersteen Audio</code> speakers. They have minimal cabinet resonance, phase coherent crossovers &amp; driver positioning, and even frequency response for clear sound.
* '''Amplifier''': An Rotel RB-1090 powers my speakers.
* '''Subwoofers''': Two HSU Research ULS-15 from Dr. Hsu, one of the inventors of the original subwoofer.

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<span id="speaker-selection-why-i-use-vandersteens"></span>
=== Speaker Selection: Why I Use Vandersteens ===

<span id="minimal-cabinet-resonances-diffraction-off-the-bezel."></span>
==== Minimal cabinet resonances &amp; diffraction off the bezel. ====

These speakers cost $1100 used when I got them, and under $900 were available with minor crossover issues. I like these for a very good reason; exceptional engineering with little/no attention put to marketing or looks. True function over form.

They have great frequency response AND phase response. Further, their shape avoids baffle diffraction &amp; cabinet resonances.

Do this - put your hands by your mouth and cup them. That weird boxy sound you get? That’s what it’s like when you have a speaker that’s a giant box. It’s why your television sounds like garbage.

When you look at these Vandersteens, you notice that even though it looks like a big speaker, the top part is actually just a pole. It’s nothing in there - it’s almost completely hollow besides the bass cabinet. Minimal baffle, minimal diffraction. When there’s diffraction that means you’re listening to the noise from the speaker driver PLUS the reflections off the cabinet that are milliseconds apart.

When you get used to hearing speakers that have minimal cabinet resonances and baffle diffraction, it’s really hard to go back to speakers that do. Everything else sounds like a speaker; this sounds real.

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<span id="used-market-availability."></span>
==== Used market availability. ====

'''Inflation? What inflation?'''

In 2009 I bought a set of model 2 for $400 from someone with a leaky apartment, and in 2011 I had the choice of $1100 for high quality used or $900 for a set with minor, repairable crossover issues. Now, a set of 2c are $650, and 3a signatures are $1600 in good condition.

'''Low end models feature same high end engineering'''

99% of what you get in the Vandersteen Model 3a signature which is $7000 new and $1000-$2000 used you get in the lower end models like the 2c.

'''These are always for sale.'''

Anytime you to go ebay.com or audiogon.com , someone is selling a set of these.

'''Subwoofer? Why?'''

These are down about 1 dB at 30 hz. That’s insane. Most likely, the subwoofer you have with your soundbar or home theater produces less bass than these.

The extension along with a small cabinet does come at a price - you’re not going to 120 dB with a lot of low end with these. But, for most music and even movies at reasonable volumes in average sized spaces, you’ll get the full range experience without feeling like you’re missing out.

<span id="speaker-selection-why-i-use-axiom-m3"></span>
=== Speaker Selection: Why I Use Axiom M3 ===

'''Quality engineering over marketing wankery'''

'''Axiom''' is a company that was early to the scene with direct-to-the-consumer online sales. Their “marketing budget” was a guy named Alan Lofft who answered people’s questions on an early webforum that looked like a usenet newsgroup with their logo in the top.

Axiom conducted research at the '''National Research Council''' in Canada, where double-blind tests were performed in which ordinary people would say what they preferred with regards to audio quality. Taking this scientific approach with input from the public, combined with extensive testing and design in a top quality facility allowed them to draw direct conclusions from how speakers measured to what people wanted.

'''Affordability'''

Although their prices have went up for brand new speakers, they can still be found dirt cheap used. Back in the day, their m22 speaker sounded similar to paradigm studio speakers that were near triple the price.

Speakers like the M60 that cost $800 new are no longer competitive deals at their current pricing of $2000/pair - but speakers like the M3 can be found for $160-$220, fit on a desk, and offer exceptional sound for dirt cheap.

'''Exceptional frequency response'''

Speakers like the M3 have a neutral frequency response and a very natural sound.

'''Minimal cabinet resonances'''

Take a look at the M3. Notice how the walls are not parallel? This lessens the type of internal standing waves that occur when a speaker is a perfect cube box. It’s a small touch, but little details like this show them actually focusing on engineering rather than making it look pretty, paying for annoying influencer marketing campaigns, and trendy nonsense.

Same deal with Vandersteens - you can grab the Model 2s used for like $600. These go down to about 30 hertz, very linearly. So you could easily use these without a subwoofer and get better bass than 99% of those computer speaker setups with their tiny subwoofers. These actually have a 10-inch passive radiator in the back and an 8-inch woofer in the front.

The key is don’t buy this stuff new. Just look through eBay for a few minutes, check AudioGon, and you can find insane deals. You’ll end up with speakers that absolutely destroy setups that cost 5-10 times more.

<span id="debunking-audiophile-myths"></span>
== Debunking Audiophile Myths ==

Now, let’s address some audiophile myths. There’s this idea that more expensive always equals better, especially when it comes to cables. You’re going to hear about people justifying $5,000 cables, which is ''absolute nonsense''.

<span id="abx-double-blind-testing-doesnt-matter"></span>
==== ABX Double blind testing doesn’t matter ====

A key sign you’re speaking to someone who has their head as far up their ass as their ego, or a salesman, is when they refuse to acknowledge the benefits of ABX double blind tests. Hydrogenaudio is '''THE''' place for top tier codec developers &amp; programmers to congregate and showcase their new developments; they have had ABX testing as part of their forum rules for over 20 years. If you post about sonic differences without sharing ABX test results.. you’re gone.

That should tell you something.

The ABX test is a method used to objectively compare audio equipment. It involves three inputs—A, B, and X, where X is randomly selected from either A or B. The listener must identify X without prior knowledge, and if they can’t consistently tell the difference, their input is considered irrelevant.

You have a program where you know what A is(an uncompressed wav file), you know what B is(a compressed 128 kbps AAC file), but you don’t know what X is. Every time you hit the X button, you are listening to either A or B - but you don’t know which. It is your job to figure out what X is, each time.

If you can’t get it right '''''12 out of 16 times''''', you didn’t hear a difference. It was all in your head.

Our memory for people’s voices is exceptional. Our ability to be honest with ourselves about our auditory memory is '''complete garbage'''. The reason for this is that we forget what something sounded like with regards to every sonic detail the moment we stop listening to it. It’s easy for our brain to ''“think”'' it heard a difference when it didn’t.

'''This is a good thing, right?'''

It depends how you see it.

<span id="the-upside-of-abx-testing"></span>
===== The upside of ABX testing: =====

If you can’t hear the difference between a $200 amplifier and a $20,000 amplifier, you just avoided breaking into your 401k for $19,800 worth of audiophile bs.

<span id="the-downside-of-abx-testing"></span>
===== The downside of ABX testing: =====

The crushing of fragile egos.

Read youtube comments sections. Anytime a company, a manufacturer, a developer, etc. screws a group of people over, there are two groups of people in the comments:

* People who are supportive
* People who say that everyone who made a difference choice than them in
** Who they voted for
** Who they worked for
** Who they did work for
** What software they bought
** What hardware they bought
** etc, etc. is an idiot.

This is done because it ''makes people feel better about themselves''. If I can hear the difference between a $5 cable and a $500 cable, it means I’m a connoisseur, unlike the plebs &amp; unwashed masses who can’t tell the difference. It also makes me '''feel''' like I am getting an upgrade when I am actually not. Above all, it gives people an ego boost, and who doesn’t want that?

* '''Audio Memory and Bias:'''
** Human auditory memory is fleeting. The moment you switch from one system to another, your ability to accurately remember the sound diminishes.
** This makes it easy to convince yourself that a more expensive component sounds better, even if it doesn’t.

<blockquote>'''Warning:''' Avoid falling for marketing gimmicks that promise crazy improvements whose vendors will hide from ABX testing. Forums like <code>hydrogenaudio</code> can offer a reality check with evidence-based discussions.
</blockquote>
By focusing on what ACTUALLY matters; speaker quality, room acoustics, and well-researched purchases—you can make a hi-fi system that satisfies both your ears and your wallet.

<span id="expensive-equipment-is-a-priority-over-acoustic-treatment"></span>
=== Expensive equipment is a priority over acoustic treatment ===

When you look on audiophile webforums, you will see people with Krell amplifiers, wilson watt puppy speakers, and lavry digital to analog converters in untreated drywall rooms. No bass traps. No acoustic panels. It’s insane.

A $400 stereo in a good room will beat a $40,000 stereo in an untreated room.

Avoid falling into the trap of spending thousands on equipment that doesn’t deliver proportionately better sound. Focus on well-designed, affordable electronics, and you’ll have a setup that works amazing in your living room without emptying your wallet.

<span id="receivers-amps-electronics"></span>
== Receivers, amps, electronics ==

Today, audio electronics that are competently designed(key word; ''competently'') will be indistinguishable in an ABX test from gear that costs $10,000. Paying $10,000 for an amplifier or $8000 for a DAC isn’t an exercise in audible improvements; they’re just status symbols.

<span id="the-basic-building-blocks"></span>
=== The Basic Building Blocks ===

You need three main things to get from digital music to sound: 1. Something to turn digital into analog (DAC) 2. Something to control volume and inputs (preamp) 3. Something to make it loud enough for speakers (power amp)

<span id="digital-to-analog-converter-dac"></span>
==== Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) ====

* Takes the digital signal from your computer, the 1s and 0s, and turns it into an electrical audio signal.
* This could be in your computer motherboard, a soundcard, in a box by itself, in your receiver, or your television.
* Most modern ones are fine - don’t fall for a $10000 DAC or similar bs
* Having this OUTSIDE of your computer usually means less chances for computer-y noise in your audio like hiss/high frequency noises when doing something with your computer.

<span id="preamp"></span>
==== Preamp ====

* This controls which input you’re listening to, so you can switch between a bluray player, cable box, playstation, etc.
* This is what has a volume knob, so it’s pretty much a fancy switch &amp; volume control, sometimes has bass/treble controls on it.
* This isn’t what makes things ''louder'' - that’s for the power amplifier.
* This can be better than taking the output from a digital to analog converter and simply lowering the audio volume in VLC.

<span id="preamp-why-the-hell-would-i-pay-for-a-fancy-volume-knob-when-my-mouse-wheel-and-vlc-let-me-do-that-for-free"></span>
==== Preamp? Why the hell would I pay for a fancy volume knob when my mouse wheel and VLC let me do that for free? ====

When you lower the audio signal volume in VLC, you’re not attenuating an analog signal. Attenuating an analog signal takes the same audio you had and just shrinks the waveform.

When you lower the volume using VLC and then amplifying that, you’re lowering the volume digitally. 16 bit audio has 96 dB of dynamic range, 24 bit audio has 144. If you lower the volume digitally too much, it will start to sound like you are actually losing bits of audio. Even digital preamps usually use a ''digital signal'' to control '''analog amplification &amp; attenuation.'''

A great example of this would be to hook a digital to analog converter with no volume control/attenuation knob up to your computer, and plug it '''straight''' into a power amp. This would be full volume all the time. Then, lower the volume in VLC. This will sound different than lowering the volume on an analog preamp, because you’re not lowering the signal, you’re throwing away digital data.

'''If you think paying extra for a preamp is stupid, just buy a stereo receiver. You get a good enough preamp along with a good enough DAC &amp; amp and it costs around the same or less than just a preamp from “audiophile” brands.'''

<span id="power-amp"></span>
==== Power Amp ====

* Turns a tiny audio signal into a big audio signal.
* As long as it’s competently designed and can power a 4 ohm load without turning off, you’re fine.

<span id="now-the-combinations"></span>
=== Now the Combinations: ===

Similar to how a modern wireless router is actually a router, a switch, and a wireless access point all in one, the devices below are usually combinations of the devices above:

<span id="integrated-amp"></span>
==== Integrated Amp ====

* Preamp + Power amp in one box
* Usually does not come with a digital to analog converter, so still needs a DAC if you have a source with a digital output.
* Usually cheaper than separate components when comparing with others from the same company.

<span id="receiver"></span>
==== Receiver ====

* DAC + Preamp + Power amp all in one
* Often has digital inputs like optical/HDMI
* Has radio tuner, (that is why it’s called a receiver)
* Usually the cheapest all-in-one option
* Good for most people who just want things to work &amp; sound good without being overly complicated.

Most modern electronics that are competently designed all sound basically the same. Don’t fall for that “magical preamp” or “warm sounding DAC” garbage. Get something with enough power for your speakers, digital inputs you need, and spend the rest of your money on speakers and room treatment.

The only time you need separate components is: * Need more power than receivers offer * Want to upgrade one piece at a time * Have some specific feature need * Found a crazy deal on used gear

For most of the people reading this, a used ten year old receiver with optical input will do everything you need, and cost under $200. '''Save your money for the stuff that actually matters; good speakers &amp; acoustic treatment.''' (and your retirement).

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<span id="suggested-electronics-5-10-year-old-receiver-with-opticalcoax-in."></span>
=== Suggested electronics: 5-10 year old receiver with optical/coax in. ===

There are two ways in the affordable, consumer realm to transfer digital audio signals.

* SPDIF using an optical cable(toslink).
* SPDIF using a coaxial cable.
** This is like an analog RCA audio cable, same connector, but requires a cable that is manufactured to much stricter specifications.

Getting a receiver that supports ''both'' gives you flexibility in case your motherboard only supports one or the other.

Laptops rarely have coaxial or optical out. While you can get an audio interface, this is extra money, and often not immediately available. A USB to spdif device requires an online order, while a 1/8” to RCA cable is available everywhere.

This device above allows you to have the flexibility to use whatever works best for you at the time. [https://www.ebay.com/itm/156102995033?_trksid=p4375194.c101800.m5481 Best of all, it’s $187]. Used devices like these in good condition from harman kardon(before they cheaped out, go back to 2012-ish era), denon, onkyo, etc. are being sold sub-$200 on eBay &amp; audiogon every day.

<span id="understanding-room-acoustics"></span>
== Understanding Room Acoustics ==

<span id="what-makes-rooms-sound-bad"></span>
==== What makes rooms sound bad? ====

Before we get into the technical setup, let’s talk about room acoustics because it ''really'' makes a difference. Two rooms can be identical in shape &amp; size and sound completely different if one is treated and the other is not.

Some bare-walled, people call ''“echoey”''. Those aren’t '''echoes''', they’re '''early reflections'''. An '''echo''' is when you yell and then you hear it repeat back '''a second or two later'''. An '''early reflection''' is when you speak and you hear yourself alongside yourself '''a few milliseconds later'''.

What that means is that you’re not just hearing you, you’re hearing you alongside something else. It creates a totally different sonic experience &amp; it’s annoying. It’s distortion; it’s noise added to the original signal.

<span id="why-the-word-audiophile-is-a-joke"></span>
==== Why the word “audiophile” is a joke ====

Self proclaimed '''“audiophiles”''' will spend $1000 on cables and $5000 on digital to analog converters that claim they reduce inaudible distortion 0.001%. Not '''ACTUALLY''' reduce distortion 0.001% - '''''CLAIM TO''''' reduce distortion 0.001%.

Yet, they won’t spend a few hundred dollars on room treatment that reduces distortion 5% to 15%.

It’s ridiculous. Walk into many hi-fi dealers and they won’t even mention room treatment, or try to sell you room treatment. But they will upsell you to a $4000 amplifier, or $500 cable, when it sounds the same as a $200 amp and a $5 cable.

<span id="buying-acoustic-panels."></span>
=== Buying acoustic panels. ===

<span id="acoustic-panels"></span>
==== Acoustic panels ====

24”’x48”x2” acoustic panels are the most common. Something like [https://www.atsacoustics.com/item--ATS-Acoustic-Panel-24-x-48-x-2--1001.html this ATS Acoustic 24 x 48” x 2” panel]. Pretend you’re playing pool and put the panels where the sound is going to bounce around your room as it leaves your speakers. Hang these about 2 to 3 feet above the floor, behind the speakers, and behind the listening position as well.

<span id="bass-traps"></span>
==== Bass traps ====

Bass traps are just bigger acoustic panels. The more insulating material, the lower the frequencies they absorb. It is most obvious when midrange and high frequencies are reduced in volume as this is within the range we are most sensitive to hearing differences in, since these are the frequencies of the human voice.

You may wonder what the point of a bass trap is. Most people want '''''more''''' bass, not less! Reflections are the enemy of bass.

If low frequency reflections are only a few milliseconds away from the original sound, they can cause phase issues where they cancel each other out, resulting in giant peaks and nulls in certain areas of the room, at certain frequencies. By '''absorbing''' the reflections, you wind up with '''more, and higher quality ''net''''' bass.

Bass traps usually start at 4” of thickness.

<span id="acoustic-foam"></span>
==== Acoustic foam ====

[https://www.amazon.com/JBER-Acoustic-Soundproofing-Resistant-Treatment/dp/B08R1JFZCF?crid=2ZD3L0YJRKWHH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.I2VrY2tWcVyr8K7lX_3vj_F0oqWJSMyQWdmwc_CLXm0ETvcT70DlUkA5WkaV2_4e_k_vYbWY2ZzKwXM94vQYxgrmZOEtmIDK-ATi3sAbLLYU13HM_8tlJJ5YLp40IQciG0-1A2epdNltNct6tKiHIJ0rZZk5wdp96msp-Hhbxa7VsW81O_d2UZYfJVtqA8Hygwnzl2o2Gv5HuBsWLYUbJk3kbXaxxJEVoehDBHwgiUmRJnsIyBjr7JskLQHM8ra6AX4UsgFd3fpEZDRHMgBkpsJFDGFb8DdVepF0ODt6Q6I.4-RG_jpCaEIScDOr8y8kaImu864LS0mPU33Upfd76Zk&dib_tag=se&keywords=acoustic%2Bfoam&qid=1731827043&sprefix=acoustic%2Bfoam%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-6&th=1 Acoustic foam] is a much cheaper alternative unless you’re getting ripped off buying Auralex. However, it is way less effective. It mostly absorbs high frequencies, and the darker colors are exceptional at making rooms look depressing.

Still, this is considerably better than having nothing at all.

they don’t absorb low frequencies, just the higher ones. Compare that to, which are much more effective.

* '''Cheap Foam''': Absorbs only high frequencies; ineffective for bass.
* '''Owens Corning 703''': Absorbs a broader range of frequencies, including low ones.

Even with subpar treatment, you avoid some early reflections that can muddy up your sound. But trust me, investing in quality acoustic panels is worth it.

<span id="make-your-own-acoustic-panels"></span>
=== Make your own acoustic panels ===

Here’s what you need to make your own acoustic panels:

* '''[https://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-insulation-materials/acoustic-insulation/owens-corning-acoustic-insulation/oc7032 Owens Corning 703 fiberglass]''' for the absorption material
* '''2x4 wood''' to frame the fiberglass.
* '''Burlap''' to hold the fiberglass in place and keep it from falling out
* '''Staplegun''' to attach the burlap to the wood frame.
* '''Brackets and drywall/brick anchors''' to hang them on your wall

That’s it. My original acoustic panels were all DIY.

Materials like Owens Corning 703 fiberglass and burlap to create broadband acoustic absorbers. Avoid using generic insulation from Home Depot as it’s not designed for sound absorption. Insulation is too loose, the sound waves move around the fibers but don’t get absorbed into it.

To recap:

* Buy some Owens Corning 703 fiberglass or a similar product for sound absorption.
* Grab some 2x4s and cut them to 2 feet by 4 feet.
* Purchase burlap and use a staple gun to wrap the fiberglass in burlap.

<span id="hunting-for-deals"></span>
== Hunting for Deals ==

To stretch your budget:

* Browsing eBay and audiogon regularly for deals on high-end speakers and receivers
* Create bookmarks for searches that fit your criteria for models and brands you like on these websites. Check it every morning for a few seconds so you get a good deal before someone else buys it.

With patience, you can put together a hi-fi system that outperforms setups priced at $10,000-$15,000 for just about $1,500. Or a setup for $400 that sounds closer to $4000.

<span id="sourcing-your-content-4k-blurays-with-the-right-drive"></span>
== Sourcing your content; 4k blurays with the right drive ==

Because the MPAA &amp; RIAA are a bag of dicks, they have managed to get almost every bluray drive manufacturer to not allow you to make a backup of your own property. They won’t rip 4k blurays.

However, there is a way around this; get a Pioneer BDR-2213 running a [https://www.avsforum.com/threads/ripping-uhd-4k-discs-with-makemkv-instructions-how-to.2942740/page-233 nice old firmware].

With this, you can rip your content in the '''exact same uncompressed quality''' you got it in. This will look so much better than the garbage low bitrate streaming quality you get from modern streaming services.

Modern streaming services give you three options:

# Use an HDCP compliant processor, HDCP compliant monitor, HDCP compliant operating system, to watch content you paid for. Jump through more hoops when PAYING than you do when pirating.
# Use a smarttv, a device that is [https://www.consumerreports.org/electronics/privacy/how-to-turn-off-smart-tv-snooping-features-a4840102036/ honest to your face that it spies on you and sells your personal data]
# Be stuck viewing a 1-2 mbps low resolution stream.
# Give a giant middle finger to the MPAA with a Pioneer BDR-2213, running old firmware.

Option 4 wins every time.

<span id="elegant-home-theater-pc-setup-for-people-who-dont-want-a-disorganized-mess"></span>